by Saya Des Marais
Dedicated to Humpeng and family of Sabai Sabai Massage & Restaurant in Nong Khiaw, Laos. May your compassionate laughter never change.
I was in Nong Khiaw, a dry, quiet village in the north of Laos, and I hadn’t left my guesthouse in three days.
Three days earlier, I was stumbling along the [...]
Archive for June, 2013
by Saya Des Marais
by Lisa Alpine
Waking early our first full day at Little Governors’ Camp in the Maasai Mara Reserve in Kenya, we were startled to see elephant, hippo, and warthog tracks circling close to the edges of our canvas tent. Was that also a lion’s paw print inches from the tent flap?
The camp [...]
By Molly Beer
“Having a horse here is like having a motorbike in the city,” Bhupendra Sherchan explained the first day we rode out together on the flanks of snow-capped Nilgiri. The day was still pleasant and autumn-like, the light white, the winds as gentle as the sheep eddies in the town’s [...]
By Bunny McBride
. . . before the rain begins I always waken, listening to the world hold its breath. ~Lianne Spidel
It was late, and I lay in my bed in a small round hut nestled against the Great Rift Wall in northern Tanzania. The stone abode was part of a rugged camp where my biologist [...]
By Taylor Jennings
Crossing ethnic lines to find a notorious guerrilla leader.
It was early March 1999 when Ilir, my young interpreter, and I set out from Pristina in a battered Lada cast off by some other East bloc nation to find a man known only by his nom de guerre: Gjarperi, the Snake. [...]
By Laura Lee Huttenbach
An unprepared trek up Mt. Kilimanjaro turns into an adventure of a lifetime.
“If you ever make it home from Africa alive, I’m going to kill you myself,” said my mom. She wasn’t happy with my decision to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro without an oxygen supply.
“But Mom,” I said, “it was [...]
By James Dorsey
From the back of a camel the Sahara seemed endless; an infinite sea of low rolling dunes baked by a swirling sun that would be at home in a Van Gogh painting.
For one month I had been immersed in Berber Tuareg culture, traveling through Mali, as one of the famed [...]